Drawn by that neon sign

A five-minute walk south from Fuse Station. Just as the bustling clamor suddenly fades, red and green neon lights glow faintly in the distance. The letters spelling out “Popeye” are slightly faded, which actually adds to its charm.

Out front, there are empty bottles, simple chairs, and ashtrays piled together. It’s not a neatly arranged scene, but there’s something incredibly comforting about this kind of eclectic mix. It’s surely a remnant of someone’s yesterday—the very essence of city life seeping right into the place.

As I opened the door, a warm breeze wafted in, carrying with it a gentle, nostalgic scent.

“Where’s the best Chinese food in Fuse?”

That’s a conversation often heard in this town. And the name that always comes up is “Popeye.”

It started out as a tiny shop with just an L-shaped counter.

Now they’ve expanded into the vacant store next door and added a few table seats, but the sight of the yellow counter and round stools remains just the same.

It’s a place where you don’t have to sit up straight. It’s a spot where you can relax, like you’re just stopping by on your way home from somewhere. That’s probably why you find yourself wanting to say, “This has to be the best.”

The boiled dumplings are the sign that you’re a first-time visitor.

First up: the boiled dumplings. You can’t go wrong with these.

When you bite into the filling wrapped in that plump, chewy wrapper, the juices burst out. The classic way is with plenty of chili oil in the soy-vinegar dipping sauce, but the combination of soy-vinegar and black pepper is also an addictively delicious way to enjoy them.

The secret lies in the broth infused into the filling. Every morning, the owner’s son quietly but deftly kneads the broth—carefully simmered from chicken bones—into the meat mixture.

It’s a flavor that’s unassuming yet provides solid support. I feel like that essence is the very soul of this restaurant.

Stir-Fried Chicken Liver and Garlic Chives: A Feast for the Senses

With a “sizzle,” the cast-iron skillet is placed over the flame. The clanging of metal. The aroma of something toasting fills the air. Even those few minutes after placing your order feel like a feast in themselves.

The liver and garlic chives dish features tender, springy liver, and the aroma of the garlic chives whets your appetite. It’s the perfect time to hold a bottle of beer in one hand and dig in, steam and all. The word “delicious” doesn’t do it justice—it tasted like the essence of everyday life.

The Signature Dish: A Massive Portion of Fried Chicken

“Popeye Fried Chicken.” The name alone doesn’t do justice to its impact.

Seven large pieces of fried chicken sit prominently beneath a spicy vegetable stir-fry in a thick sauce. The chili bean paste-infused sauce clings smoothly to the crispy batter.

Spiciness, sweetness, the juiciness of the meat, and that crispy texture—it’s as if each element is dancing freely in your mouth.

The portion size is impressive, too. It’s the kind of dish that makes you think, “This is all I need today.”

A nickname from back in the day became the restaurant’s name

When I asked, “Why is it called Popeye?” the owner smiled a little sheepishly. “Well… it’s me.”

Back in his youth, the owner had a stocky build and was called “Popeye.” When he opened the restaurant, someone casually mentioned it during a conversation.“Popeye’s fine, isn’t it?”—and that was that.

It’s actually nice that it’s not a typical name like “○○ Restaurant.” When someone says, “Meet in front of Popeye’s,” it makes me happy. The chef laughed as he said this, looking just a little proud.

Behind the flavor lies a memory

The flavor of this restaurant can’t be measured by scores or rankings. The usual fried rice. Dumplings on the way home. Liver and scallion on a tiring day. Those memories gradually pile up, and that’s how you come to “love” it.

The day I shared fried chicken with friends, laughing. The night I savored water dumplings all by myself.

Each one is a “memory of flavor” unique to that person.

If someone asked me, “When you think of Chinese food in Fuse, what comes to mind?” I’d definitely answer:

“It’s got to be Popeye, of course.”