A Sense of the “Now” in Yanagi-koji

The Yanagi-koji dining district in Fuse. Once, signs bearing the names of independent shops lined the entrance, and the street bustled with activity every night. Now, many of those shops have disappeared, and a new generation of establishments is quietly taking root. “Imafuku Style” is one of them. When you open the door, you’re greeted by dim lighting and the gentle aroma of dashi rising softly through the air.

The dishes served from behind the counter are all meticulously prepared and have a home-cooked feel. Yet, they’re just a little different from the ordinary. That “little something” is packed with the time and effort of the owner, Mokkun.

Chef and Bag Craftsman

There’s no unnecessary embellishment in Mokkun’s cooking. His commitment to exploring ingredients to their fullest and seeing each dish through to the very end shapes the essence of every plate.

Even when he stepped away from cooking to work at a bag factory, he approached every step—from cutting the leather to sewing and finishing—with the same thorough dedication. That rigorous approach remained unchanged, even as his profession shifted. That’s likely why, when he returned to the kitchen, he was naturally convinced that cooking, too, is “the work of a craftsman.”

“Delicious” Comes from a Slight Sense of Incongruity

Mokkun’s cooking is different from what is commonly called “creative cuisine.” Rather than relying on flashy combinations, he subtly weaves a slight sense of incongruity into familiar dishes.

Take, for example, the “Imafuku Potato Salad.” It looks like an ordinary potato salad, but the moment you take a bite, the umami of seafood spreads across your palate.In reality, the only ingredients used are dried baby sardines seasoned with sansho pepper and bonito flakes. It’s the careful layering of ingredients and cooking techniques that creates this mysterious flavor.

The braised pork belly is served with a black sauce made from reduced hijiki seaweed. The spring rolls are filled with steamed chicken and seasonal vegetables, finished with a light touch of lemon and fish sauce.The ume chakin with thickened sauce gently envelops sea bream fillets, bringing the refined elegance of kappo cuisine to the everyday dining table.

It’s not flashy, but it makes you think, “This is somehow just right.” That feeling builds up, making you want to come back again and again.

Between the Everyday and the Creative

Fuse isn’t a tourist destination; it’s a town where locals go about their daily lives. The shopping street in front of the station is lined with delis and produce stands, and just beyond it, rows of old houses stand side by side with new apartment buildings. Precisely because the scent of everyday life is so strong here, restaurants are expected to be an extension of that “unpretentious daily life.”

If a restaurant serves only avant-garde creations, it stands out too much; if it sticks only to classics, its unique character fades. Straddling that fine line, Mokkun has incorporated subtle innovations into the familiar dishes he knows so well.

Rather than flashiness, his dishes make you think, “Hmm, this is actually pretty good,” before you even realize it. Not too avant-garde, yet not too ordinary—the trial and error involved in striking that balance has shaped the “Imafuku Style” we know today.

The Atmosphere Woven by the Couple

The restaurant operates on a reservation-only basis with two seatings: one starting at 5:00 PM and another at 8:00 PM, closing at 10:00 PM.

This is the ideal rhythm for taking the time to prepare each dish with care. Mokkun stands in the kitchen, while Nahoko manages the front of the house. The warmth of this husband-and-wife team permeates every corner of the restaurant.

The Luxury of “Ocha-wari”

If asked, “What would you like to drink?” I’d choose the Genmaicha Highball without hesitation. It’s made with a special blend of tea leaves developed by Yamashiro Bussan in Kyoto in collaboration with a “tea connoisseur.” It combines domestically grown rice, roasted over high heat, with Shizuoka’s deep-steamed tea and matcha.

The interplay of toasty aroma and sweetness sets it apart from ordinary tea-based cocktails. With every sip, the evening unfolds with a touch of elegance.

A Timeless Way to Enjoy the Night

The name on the sign is gone. Yet there are people here who are lighting a new flame on this street. An evening spent at “Imafuku Style” is a symbol of that.

This isn’t a place just to get drunk. It’s a place to eat, talk, and enjoy a nice evening. You’ll find yourself naturally saying, “Let’s go again.” That’s Fuse’s “Imafuku Style.”