Its name is “Hōzen-ji Bekke.” A skewered meat shop glowing at the edge of town

Just past the bustling Fuse Shopping Street, a short walk down the main road, “Hōzen-ji Bekke” stands quietly. Its exterior is so unassuming that even regular passersby might easily overlook it.

Open the door, and you’ll find a six-seat counter, with two tables for four in the back. There’s no excessive decoration or pretentious atmosphere, but the aroma of oil and a quiet, intense heat fill the space.

The owner spent 20 years honing his skills as a skewer chef at the renowned “Hōzen-ji” in Yao. He has poured all his expertise and passion into this small shop.

When you hear “kushikatsu” (deep-fried skewers), a lively image often comes to mind, but the version served at “Hōzenji Bekka” is, rather, found in stillness. Just like a tea ceremony, each skewer is fried one by one, as if in sync with the owner’s breath.

The moment that single skewer is placed before you, you find yourself sitting up just a little straighter.

“Whether it’s ‘kushikatsu’ or ‘kushiyaki’—either is fine.”

The shop sign reads “Kushiage.” However, in Osaka, “kushikatsu” might be the more familiar term. When asked about the difference, the owner replied with a smile:

“There isn’t really a big difference, you know. But no matter what term our customers use, it’s fine either way. What matters is whether they find the skewer in front of them delicious. That’s all.”

That laid-back attitude is reflected in every single skewer. It’s not flashy, but it’s meticulous. The oil temperature, the thickness of the ingredients, the texture of the batter—everything, in its own small way, caters to the diner.

A little preparation before the first skewer

The meal begins with chilled tofu and vegetable sticks.
First, these prepare both your stomach and your mind.

And once the freshly fried skewers are placed on the counter, the real show begins.

Each skewer is carefully fried right before your eyes in a “live-style” setting. Since they’re served one by one as they’re ready, you can enjoy them at your own pace. Once you’re full, just say “Stop.”

This sense of distance in the “omakase” style is also very pleasant. There’s a refreshing simplicity in simply savoring whatever is served—and it’s strangely satisfying.

The Aftertaste of Freshly Fried Skewers, Enhanced by Three Flavors

The skewers are served with three different seasonings: homemade sauce, ponzu, and salt mixed with white sesame seeds.

The sauce, in particular, is a unique blend created by the owner. It has a sweet flavor with a hint of curry powder added as a secret ingredient.“So even children can enjoy it,” he says—a gentle consideration lies behind this choice.

The salt is mixed with white sesame seeds. A light, toasty aroma—something plain salt simply can’t achieve—spreads throughout your mouth.

None of them overpower the dish, yet they all undeniably enhance the flavor of the skewers.

An unexpected pairing. Enjoy with wine

Another charm of “Hōzen-ji Bekke” is its depth. At first glance, the interior appears to be a traditional Japanese space, but it actually houses a discreet wine cellar.

You might be surprised to hear “kushikatsu and wine?” But take a bite, and you’ll understand. The toasty aroma of the batter and the mellow richness of the oil—when combined with the wine’s acidity and fruitiness, they harmonize in a surprisingly beautiful way.

Red, white, sparkling—the staff will recommend pairings tailored to your meal, so even those who don’t usually drink wine can enjoy it with confidence. This is a space where the phrase “quality time” is by no means an exaggeration.

Whether you’re dropping by on a whim or dining with your family.

Families with children often visit this restaurant. The owner himself says, “Please do bring them along.”

Freshly fried skewers with a slightly sweet sauce—the flavors here are safe for children to enjoy. That’s likely why, in addition to the six-seat counter, there are two table seats available.

Take your time eating, laughing, and chatting. It’ll be the kind of night where these kushikatsu become a cherished family memory.

Another Side of “Osaka-ness”

“Hōzenji Bekke” is different from the bustling kushikatsu spots typical of Osaka. But I think that, too, is another facet of Osaka.

Sincerity found in the quiet. A moment when you can let your heart be carried away by the sound of frying.The mysterious harmony of wine and kushikatsu. And the warmth of the owner, who laughs and says, “It doesn’t really matter what you call it.”

Eating becomes a slightly special experience. If you’re looking for a night like that, head out to the edge of Fuse and see if you can spot the light.