“Let’s go to Bakuten”—it’s almost like a catchphrase.

Whether you’re just a little hungry or want a proper meal in the evening—whether it’s a welcome or farewell party, or a long-awaited class reunion—the name that everyone in Fuse mentions in unison is “Jidori to Gyosai Bakuten.”

With counter seats, sunken kotatsu, and table seating, the space feels like a vessel that fits any group size, and before you know it, you find yourself relaxing there. Whether it’s office workers or members of local associations, everyone says, “You can’t go wrong if you go there.” That’s the sense of reassurance you’ll find here.

The Scent of Charcoal and the Subtlety of Care

Standing in the kitchen is the owner, who looks a bit intimidating at first glance. But that’s simply because of the seriousness with which he approaches his food. He’s a genuine “chef” who trained for many years at a kappo restaurant in Kitashinchi and has also worked in the kitchens of top-tier hotels.

He never serves a single dish carelessly. Whether it’s preparing the fish, searing the grilled items, or plating the dishes—you can tell just by watching. The meticulous techniques honed in kappo restaurants breathe life into every dish he creates each day.

When it’s time to pay, he offers a soft smile and says, “Thank you very much”—and in that instant, your tension melts away. Even if it’s your first visit, I feel that’s the reason you’ll instinctively want to come back.

And when you take your seat, you’re discreetly handed a handwritten menu. The fish and vegetables selected for the day are listed in careful, elegant handwriting. Every time you read your order aloud, you feel as though you’re getting a little closer to the owner—and that, too, feels wonderful.

Lunch Box: Fuse’s Little Secret

The “Box Lunch,” available only on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at lunchtime, has become something of a local specialty. It’s a moment when the gentle midday light seems to stream into the wooden box, where three carefully prepared side dishes are neatly arranged.

The fact that this lunch costs exactly 1,000 yen is typical of Fuse. It’s unpretentious yet thoroughly satisfying. Before you know it, the number of repeat customers has grown, and lunchtime is bustling. Among foodies, the rumor goes, “If you don’t make a reservation, you won’t get a seat.”

Seared Adult Chicken and a Side of Pasta

If you visit in the evening, start with the “Miyazaki Jidori Tatar-style Adult Chicken.” The aroma of charcoal gently tickles your nose from the boldly seared surface. Enjoy the crisp, firm texture with the accompanying condiments. From the very first bite, you’ll know it’s “delicious.”

Next, try the sashimi and grilled dishes. Occasionally, creative dishes like carpaccio make an appearance, and you’ll be amazed by the owner’s versatility. These are free-spirited dishes that break the mold—possible precisely because he understands traditional forms. His experience in kappo cuisine is put to full, unrestrained use right here and now.

And then there’s the “pasta,” which is a secret favorite. It might be a bit unexpected, but when you order it, the chef says, “This will take a little while.” That simple phrase feels somehow comforting. Even the wait becomes a treat. Pasta made over the kappo stove is a bit of a departure from tradition—but it’s absolutely spot-on.

The sake here tempts you to have just one more glass

The selection of sake, curated to pair with the dishes, feels like a lineup that truly understands the spirit of this place. Whether served chilled or warmed, you can trust their judgment on the perfect match. I think this is exactly what they mean when they say “they anticipate your every need.”

A friend who arrived late laughs and says, “Bakuten really is a place where you can relax, isn’t it?” And just like that, someone brings someone else along. Perhaps a restaurant isn’t just about the food—it’s built on that kind of cycle.

The Strength of Unchanging “Classics”

I vaguely remember the night I first came to Bakuten. I burned my tongue on piping-hot grilled dishes, the smell of charcoal clung to my clothes, and we got so caught up in conversation that we missed the last train.

The pasta we ordered at the end turned out to be a surprisingly generous portion, and before I knew it, I was wolfing it down like a baseball team member.Because traditional Japanese techniques are firmly rooted in the broth and the combination of ingredients, even though it has the face of an Italian restaurant, its core remains unwavering.

It had a vigor you wouldn’t expect from a dish that came straight out of a kappo kitchen, and that made me happy.

There probably aren’t that many restaurants where you remember every little detail like that.But for some reason, Bakuten is one of them. It’s not just a place with great food—it’s a place that gives you something more.

There’s a solid reason why adults who know Fuse’s nightlife choose this place as their “go-to.” You might understand that reason the moment you try the food, or it might take a few visits to finally realize it.

And that’s probably just fine.