A 100-Year-Old Lineage of Eel Restaurants

“Moriya” first hung its noren at this location in Heisei 3.

Originally, the restaurant operated under the Kintetsu elevated tracks, serving “conger eel, eel, and fresh seafood dishes.” Going back even further, the owner’s grandparents were said to have run an eel wholesale business.

Before we knew it, the family business had been running for over 100 years.

“It’s just that we’ve been around for a long time,” the owner says with a laugh, but when asked why he continued to use wooden crates even after switching from charcoal to gas grilling, the weight of all that accumulated time gently seeps through.

Fresh live eel, delivered early in the morning, grilled over an open flame with a fragrant aroma

They use live eels sourced from Aichi Prefecture.

Their philosophy is “Kansai-style grilling”: the eels are filleted in the shop each morning and grilled directly over an open flame without steaming. They sear the surface over high gas heat while gently cooking the inside with far-infrared heat. The skin is crispy, and the flesh is plump.

When you take it home, try searing it briefly on the grill. The aroma that rises will instantly make you feel as if you’ve returned to the shop.

Delivered in a wooden box, not plastic

Even as convenient and inexpensive containers become more common, “Moriya” bento boxes are still packed in wooden one-go-sized boxes. Wood absorbs excess moisture, so the rice doesn’t get soggy.

“We want you to enjoy it just as delicious at home.” It’s not just the careful control of the grill’s heat—it’s the care poured into even the container that creates that sense of warmth when you open the box.

We want to hand them over while they’re still warm

They start preparing the bento boxes according to the reserved pickup time. “If you could give us a little extra time when you make your reservation, we can hand it over to you in a state that’s even closer to freshly made,” the daughter told me with a gentle smile.

I felt as though that thoughtfulness was gently infused not only into the heat of the grill but also into the bento box itself.

Fluffy and Delicately Flavored Unagi-Maki

If you’re looking for a quick treat, try the “unamaki.” They’re sold by the piece, but if you let them know your pickup time in advance, you can even get them fresh off the grill.

Fragrant eel is tightly wrapped inside a fluffy omelet, and the sweetness of the dashi broth and the rich depth of the sauce slowly spread throughout.

I recommend the “Unamaki Don,” served with rice seasoned with the sauce. The staff casually shared this way of eating it with me, and it made my heart feel at ease.

A Hidden Gem: The Rich Flavor of “Liver”

Grilled liver is another hidden gem known only to connoisseurs. The aroma of the freshly grilled liver, and the subtle bitterness and umami that unfold with each bite.

Some customers have even said, “I used to dislike it, but Moriya’s grilled liver went down a treat.”

Staying True to Our Principles, Even as Prices Rise

The purchase price of eel rises year after year. Even so, the owner says, “I want our longtime customers to be able to enjoy it just as they always have.”

The owner’s daughter is always by his side at the grill. Watching the two of them work in perfect harmony, silently grilling, I could see the unwavering effort behind that “unchanging flavor.”

A “luxury” you happen to enjoy in the midst of everyday life. That takeout box is filled with skill, care, and aroma.